August is a strange time in Paris.
In July, many Parisians start leaving Paris for vacation--at the beach, in the countryside, in the mountains and in other countries. By mid-August, there is a noticeable change in Paris. Traffic is lighter, parking spaces are plentiful and many shops, especially family-run shops, close for an extended period. When we shop in our local grocery store, it seems deserted.
Below is a typical scene. It shows our local bakery closed for most of August. The longstanding custom is to tape a hand-written note on the door announcing the closure.
The folks at the local bakery must have been eager to close and start their vacations. Someone wrote they were closing August 31, instead of the day they actually closed, July 31. |
With the exodus of many Parisians, it seems that tourists take over. Since we live in the center of Paris, we see many, many tourists. Paris becomes so crowded with visitors that the sidewalks are jammed and lines to enter museums grow very long. One recent day, we visited the Louvre and were turned away because the museum, despite its enormous size, had reached its capacity.
As August 15 approaches, the transformation of Paris reaches its peak. In France (as in Italy), August 15 is a national holiday, L'Assomption. Even more shops close around that day.
We are told that things will return to normal at the start of September. Parisians return from vacation, children return to school, shops reopen. Plus, the number of tourists of decreases. So, we are looking forward to September. We are especially looking forward to our local bakery reopening, because they make delicious parties.
Pastries at Yannick Martin. Jean-Claude thinks their Opera Cake is da bomb. |
In the meantime, we joined the exodus of Parisians, leaving for the U.S. mid-August. As they say, when in Paris . . . .
We wish everyone a happy August, wherever you are.
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