The 10 Year Plan: Bologna (Part 1of 2)

A recent adventure found us in Bologna, not far from Florence.

While not far, Bologna is separated from Florence by a series of hills, which means the weather in Bologna is not the same as Florence. Bologna has its own climate. We found that out immediately when we walked out of the train station into freezing weather. From the 40's in Florence to freezing was a shock to our systems. We half expected to see snow falling. By the end of the day, Greg's pre-existing head-cold went from mild to "I'll show you who's the boss!"

First things first, what do you at lunchtime in Bologna when the weather is freezing? You sit down to lunch, inside. We found a trattoria near the center of town and sat down to wonderful and warming lunch. Bologna is known for food in general and there are some local specialties. One is tortellini in brodo, or pasta in broth. Another is pasta ragù--select a favorite pasta, add a creamy red sauce, plus ham, mushrooms and spices. Another is thinly sliced meat alla Bolognese--a seared cutlet with paper thin ham and melted cheese on top. We greatly enjoyed those specialties and they sustained us through the day. Also, a request for a single glass of red was mistaken for a small pitcher of red. Sometimes, not speaking Italian well is a good thing. Lunch was thumbs up.

After lunch, we toured the center of chilly Bologna. The wind blew but we walked under the many colonnaded walkways for protection from the elements. Window shopping was an added benefit.

There are miles and miles of covered walkways in Bologna. Even more than in Turin.

Many of the colonnades have lovely terrazzo flooring.

A main square in Bologna (Piazza Nettuno)

A large Christmas tree in the square

In the square, there is a large city library and indoor arcade, the Salaborsa. Bologna claims the oldest university in the world, founded 1088. Of course, there are older educational institutions. In any event, there are a lot of university students roaming around Bologna.

Interior view of the Salaborsa. The building has had many uses over the centuries. In fact, the foundation of the building (visible through glass panels in the flooring) dates to the Etruscan period before the Romans arrived.

The largest church in Bologna is the Basilica of St. Petronius. It turns out that the church is the 10th largest in the world when measured by volume. We spent a long time exploring the voluminous church. (Plus, it was well heated. Thank you, St. Petronius.)

A view of St Petronius from the front door. Building began in the late 14th century and did not stop until the 20th century. The church is not fully completed: the façade is finished halfway, with the upper half still in rough stone. About 150 years into construction, there was a plan to make the church even larger than St. Peter's Basilica in Rome. The pope put the kibosh on that. (We think kibosh is Latin for fuggedaboutit.)

St. Petronius main altar

Behind the altar, we discovered a temporary exhibition of ancient instruments--mandolins, violins, cellos, etc., some dating from the 18th century.

St. Petronius pipe organ

One of many side chapels. This chapel was decorated for the holidays.

Another side chapel, with beautiful windows.

We ventured back out into cold and walked the oldest streets of the city. The streets were festive with holiday decorations and many people shopping.

In addition to the usual shops, we saw several pop up markets with a holiday theme. There was even a French Christmas market. Oo la la.

Some dude trying to keep warm while wondering why this random woman is taking his picture. Well, she is kind of a hottie.

Another large church is Bologna's ancient cathedral, the Cattedrale Metropolitana di San Pietro. (It too was warm. Thank you St. Peter.) The original church on the site dates from about 900 A.D. ad you can see some of the oldest part of the church in tunnels underneath.