Saturday, September 16, 2017

Travels in Tuscany--Arezzo (Part 2 of 2)

Our adventure in Arezzo continues. 

While walking through the town, we came across the one-handed gent pictured below.  We guessed that, in real life, the lion ate the gent's left hand. 

Grand Duke of Tuscany Ferdinand III (1822)
Next, we visited the Basilica of San Domenico, a very old Dominican church in Arezzo.   An original very small building dates from about 1236. The Basilica pictured below was built around the original building.  Construction of the Basilica began in 1275.  The architectural style is Gothic with some Romanesque features. The Basilica is notable for its well-preserved crucifix by pre-Renaissance artist Cimabue.

Crucifix by Cimabue (1265)

St. Peter Martyr of Verona, an early Dominican martyred for combatting heresy


The Embrace of St. Francis and St. Dominic


Next, we visited the home of Giorgio Vasari, a late Renaissance painter and architect and historian.  Vasari was born in Arezzo and lived there much of his life, although he spent long periods in Rome and Florence, where he worked for the Medici family.  He was friends with contemporaries Pontormo and Michelangelo (even though some say Michelangelo had no friends because of his irascible personality). 


The house today is a small museum, featuring paintings by Vasari and the paintings of other Renaissance collected by Vasari.  Also, the walls and ceilings of several rooms of the house are decorated with paintings.   




In the Room of Virtue's Triumph, the ceiling depicts the Allegories of Virtue, Fortune and Envy.  Can you guess which is which? 



From Casa Vasari, we ventured to the Badia of Saints Flora and Lucilla, an ornate abbey church. 





The dome over the altar is an amazing work of art.  Although the surface is completely flat, the painted image simulates a three-dimensional space with sculpted columns, capitals and arches.  It is a very well-executed trompe-l'œil. 


Crucifix by Segna di Bonaventura (1319)

San Lorenzo (with his grill) (fresco)
Next, we visited the Basilica of San Francesco, which dates from about 1290.  The church closely resembled the Basilica of San Domenico and likewise featured many frescoes. 

The nave of San Franceso

Crucifix by Maestro di San Francesco
The last site we visited in Arezzo was the Roman Amphitheater.  Greg hoped to see another large, well-preserved  amphitheater, like the one in the image below. 


Greg was disappointed.  In fact, he felt misled.  What he found were ruins of a once large amphitheater.  Not much was left.  Over the centuries, most of the amphitheater was dismantled and the stones and bricks used as building materials for other structures in Arezzo.  Why schlep to the quarry or make bricks when you can take some from the unused amphitheater?


While visiting the ruins of the amphitheater, Greg noticed a forlorn captive behind bars, pictured below.


He told her not worry.  He would get her out, which resulted in a lovely smile. 


Thanks for touring Arezzo with us. 

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