Tuesday, February 28, 2017

How did Florence get its name?

What's in a name?  Florence, by any other name, would still be as beautiful. 

The origin of Florence's name is not entirely settled.  Over its long history, Florence has had several different names.

Pre-Roman Florence, Unknown Name:

Although soldiers from Rome established a Roman town here in 59 B.C., the area already had a long history of human activity.  The Etruscans were here, although their main settlement was 5 miles away in the hills.  Before the Etruscans, there were Iron Age and Bronze Age peoples and others before them.  It is unknown what any of the pre-Roman inhabitants called the area.

Roman Florence, Fluentia

A popular version of the naming of Florence starts with the arrival of retired Roman soldiers around 59 B.C.  Roman generals and other soldiers, for their faithful service to Rome, were granted lands in Tuscany near Fiesole.  Living in a hill town like Fiesole makes defensive sense but it makes daily living much harder.  So, the Roman soldiers who had conquered much of Europe believed they were secure and settled instead in the river valley below Fiesole.

In the valley, the land was conducive to farming because it was flat and rich due to periodic flooding of nearby rivers.  Two of the rivers, the Arno and the Mugnone, joined in the valley.  Their confluence gave the new Roman settlement its name, Fluentia.  The location was also selected because the nearby rivers made the area easier to defend (what army wants to attack across a river?).

Once settlement of the area had commenced, Julius Caesar in 59 B.C. ordered the construction of a "modern" Roman town for his former generals.  Of course, perhaps the generals were sent to Tuscany and given a town for another reason.  The town is more than 150 miles from Rome.  Perhaps, the generals were sent away to a pleasant Tuscan town with all sorts of diversions so they would not get restless and stir up trouble if still living in Rome.  With baths, a theater and amphitheater, plus abundant supplies of Tuscan food and wine, the inhabitants of Fluentia were clean, entertained and well fed. 

A model of Roman Fluentia at its height 
From Fluentia to Florentia:

There are various stories about the town's name changing from Fluentia to Florentia.

One scholar explains:  The name Fluentia stuck for a while.  Over time, the town grew. The town's name became Florentia "perhaps just through the ordinary process by which words are corrupted, or perhaps because of the wonderfully successful flowering of the city, Fluentia became Florentia."  (Leonardo Bruni, History of the Florentine People.)  Another scholar similarly notes that the prosperous town was called Colonia Florentina - the flourishing colony.

Another story tells us the town was named Florentia because its "was founded in spring, during the Ludi Florales, in honor of the goddess Flora".

Still another story tells us that the town was called Florentia "because of the abundance of blooming lilies in the area".  (The symbol of Florence has long been the lily, still very prominent in the life of the town.)

Another idea is that the name Florentia comes the "lush grassy planes, known as florentes" around the town.

Finally, the town's name might derive from the Etruscan phrase "Florence Birent", meaning "land between the waters".  The waters in question are the rivers Mugnone and Affrico where join they the Arno.

From Florentia to Firenze:

Over the centuries, the name Florentia evolved with the decline of Latin and the rise of medieval Italian vernacular, the Florentine dialect and then modern Italian: 

Florentia became Fiorentia, then Fiorenze, then finally Firenze in modern Italian. 

We like the story that Florence is named for the lilies flowering in the area.   Whichever story is correct, we think Florence is a beautiful place to live.   

The symbol of Florence, il Giglio (the Lily)


Monday, February 27, 2017

Random Things #7

Still more random things.

At an outdoor market, we spotted these interesting fruit, Cachi, also known as Japanese Persimmon and Diospyros kaki.  They are grown all over Italy, in part because Mussolini decreed that every farm  plant a Cachi tree.  Apparently, he wanted Italian troops to have ready access to the high-caloric fruit in Autumn.

The farmer at the market selling Cachi fruit also sold a homemade quince gelatin.  It was extremely sweet and we are glad we tried it once.  Only once.

Instead of balloons tied to a mailbox or a stork sign in the frontyward, Florentines tie pink on blue ribbons on their front doors to signal a new arrival. 

In the U.S., Susan's guilty pleasure is shopping at Dollar Trees stores.  You can imagine her excitement upon arriving in Italy and finding 99 cent stores.  Hooray!



Sunday, February 26, 2017

Visitors

We love visitors.

Last week, Susan's sister Sally and her husband Rob visited us here in Florence.  We had a wonderful time enjoying Florence together.  There was lots of sightseeing, lots of eating, lots of walking, plus finding things off the beaten path thanks to Rob.  Highlights of the visit included visiting the cathedral, Uffizi and Accademia, two free walking tours of Florence, shopping for shoes and eating gelato.

Here are a few photos from Rob and Sally's visit. 

Sally and Rob with the Ponte Vecchio in the background.

Enjoying chocolate covered strawberries at the chocolate fair.

Dinner in our apartment

Lunch at a local pizzeria.

Sally and Rob at a scenic overlook of Florence

"Amo Firenze", or "I love Florence"
We are so glad Rob and Sally came for a visit.

When are YOU coming for a visit?

Street Art: Florence #2

Some more street art seen during our strolls through Florence. 

Two, possibly three, of the works below might be painted by the same artist.  Have a look 

A half-human, half-animal creature running while carrying a ton of bricks.  The scene is painted on an exterior wall with exposed bricks due to missing stucco.

A happy couple

St. George battling the dragon

Saturday, February 25, 2017

Where do you live in Florence? #7

Where do we live in Florence?

Apparently, we live n a tiny wooden house.

Just kidding.  Our apartment can be found in a wooden scale model of the city.

During a visit to the Uffizi Gallery, we found a large model of the city of Florence, complete with landmarks, buildings and streets.

Like most people, we wanted to see if we were "on the map".  Susan searched and found our building!   



If you look closely at the photo below, you might see a very tiny Susan sitting on our terrace reading a book. 




Friday, February 24, 2017

Random things #6

Some more random things, with a focus on food.

Italy is known for its cuisine and we have already enjoyed our fair share. 

Here in Florence, the cuisine is usually Tuscan.  That means cheese, salami, pasta, beans, among other things, in all cases served with wine.  Always with wine.  Once Greg did not order wine and the waiter gave him a strange look, as if to say "Barbarian!".  

In addition, a typical drink is coffee, either a small espresso or a small cappuccino.  The small size should not be mistaken for weak coffee.  It still packs a punch.   

A typical Tuscan buffet at a party we attended recently.  Yum!

A favorite of Greg's, gnocchi with black truffles.  Yum again!

Rare, thinly sliced roast beef with sliced potatoes and thyme

Holy Honey.  A nearby monastery produces flavored honey.  The jar above contains chestnut honey.  Upon opening the jar, you can instantly smell the chestnuts.  The taste is sweet and strong--a sort of burnt, nutty flavor.

An artistic cappuccino.  It is almost a shame to ruin the artwork.  Almost. 

Thursday, February 23, 2017

Churches: Basilica of San Miniato al Monte (Part 3 of 3)

Surrounding San Miniato al Monte is a very large cemetery, called the Porte Sante, or Holy Doors.  The cemetery is home to many famous Italians, including politicians, painters and writers, such as Carlo Lorenzini, author of Pinocchio.


Just inside the entrance to the cemetery is the bell tower of church.  We arrived there at Noon to hear the bells.
Click here to hear the bell toll. 
The monuments in the cemetery are numerous and ornate.
 






In addition to the monuments atop gravesites, the cemetery has numerous family mausoleums.



This mausoleum includes the Star of David

Not to worry. Film director Franco Zeffirelli does not yet reside here.  At 93, he is alive and kicking here in Florence.

The beautiful mosaic of the Ruspoli family mausoleum drew our attention. 

The Ruspoli family residence in the center of Florence also drew our attention.  Wherever they reside, the Ruspoli will have a nice place to rest. 

A lone rose caught our eye because of its beauty and because it is blooming despite the cold.
Outside the cemetery is a shop where the monks sell their products. 

Making a purchase in the shop

A happy customer with monk-made cookies and chocolate.

Another scenic view of Florence from San Miniato al Monte
We hope you enjoyed touring San Miniato al Monte with us.

P.S.  Don't forget San Miniato's example.  If you lose your head, don't let that slow you down.  Just pick it up and keep moving forward. 

Wednesday, February 22, 2017

Churches: Basilica of San Miniato al Monte (Part 2 of 3)

San Miniato al Monte has been a religious site for a long time.  First, there was a shrine honoring St. Miniato, then a chapel in the 700's, then the present church since 1013. 

Here are some photos from our visit to San Miniato al Monte.   (We have no photos of San Miniato's remains in the crypt since taking photos was prohibited.)
San Miniato al Monte:  stairs leading up to the church, the Scalea del Monte all Croci

San Miniato al Monte:  the façade of the church.  The door on the left is known as the Holy Door, the traditional entrance for parishioners.
San Miniato al Monte:  golden mosaic of Mary, Jesus and San Miniato (l. to r.)


San Miniato al Monte:  inside the Holy Door, an inscription: "Haec est Porta Coeli" or "This is the Gate of Heaven


According to one source, The inscription is taken from Genesis and the words were spoken by Jacob upon seeing the ladder of angels descending and ascending to heaven.  The inscription signifies this door to the church is the Holy Door, the door through which the Florentines could commune and make peace with heaven.

San Miniato al Monte: diagram of the church and the crypt below the alter

San Miniato al Monte: the nave of the church looking toward the altar

San Miniato al Monte:  another mosaic above the altar

San Miniato al Monte: behind the altar are "windows", thin slabs of marble that allow some light to penetrate.  Because it was sunny at midday, the "windows" were beautifully lit.

San Miniato al Monte: the "windows" viewed from outside

San Miniato al Monte: the altar decorated for Christmas
The church is filled with beautiful artwork.  Below are two samples.

San Miniato al Monte: a 14th century altar piece by Jacopo de Casentino

San Miniato al Monte: a fresco in the church
The church has many interesting architectural details. Here are a few that we especially liked.
San Miniato al Monte: geometric pattern on the dome ceiling above the altar

San Miniato al Monte: a glazed terra cotta medallion by Luca della Robbia on the dome ceiling above the altar

San Miniato al Monte: the church floor features this twin bird pattern

San Miniato al Monte: view from the church of the ancient wall of Florence

Next Up:   A visit to the cemetery.