Sunday, November 20, 2016

The Great Synagogue of Florence

Not far from our apartment is the majestic and beautiful Jewish Synagogue of Florence. 

Known as the Great Synagogue of Florence, it was completed more than 130 years ago, which is recent by Florentine standards.  The green copper dome of the temple is a prominent feature of the Florence skyline and can be seen from all over the city and surrounding countryside.  Clearly, the temple makes a statement. 

The temple is not the first synagogue in Florence.  The history of Jews in Florence stretches back hundreds of years, as documented in the museum at the temple.  The history is marked by segregation and some measure of tolerance.  The virulent anti-Semitic intolerance found elsewhere seems to be blunted in Florence. 

However, when the Germans occupied Italy during World War II, that changed.  The garden at the temple includes tributes to the hundreds of Florentines who were Jewish and who were either executed or deported to death camps. 

During the war, the Germans used the temple for storing vehicles and animals.  The Germans also scarred the altar with bayonets.  They also mined the building so that it could be completely destroyed in the event of their retreat from Florence.  When the Germans actually retreated, however, all of the mines, except one, failed to explode.  The one explosion caused some damage but the temple remained standing.  An exhibit in the garden preserves a damaged column from the temple as a reminder.

The temple also withstood the devastating Arno River flood in 1966.  The temple is located in the 2-3 meter flood zone and suffered extensive damage.  The temple's Torah was damaged but not destroyed.  It was unrolled, dried and restored.

Today, the temple is still active.  The temple and the adjacent school are guarded by heavily-armed Italian soldiers.  Plus, as we learned, entry to temple grounds is not easy. To enter, you must leave behind all bags and cameras in storage lockers and then proceed one by one through a man trap, like the ones used to enter Italian banks.  While unfortunate, having that level of security allowed us to relax and fully appreciate our visit to the temple. 

Since we had to leave behind our cameras, we could not take photos while on the grounds of the temple or inside the temple itself.  So, below are a couple of photos we took from outside plus some photos taken by others.    



The "man trap" at the entrance of the temple. 

The Great Synagogue of Florence with its green copper dome

Front of the Great Synagogue of Florence, completed in 1882 and built in the Moorish style due to the Sephardic heritage of the congregation.  The school, completed in the early 1960's, appear on the right.

Interior of the Great Synagogue of Florence


Dome of the Great Synagogue of Florence

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