Travels in Tuscany--Lucca Revisited

Lucca is a lovely Tuscan town not far from Florence.

We first visited Lucca 10 years ago during a walking tour of Tuscany.  On the day we visited, we noticed that thousands of candles had been placed around the windows of many of the buildings in the center of the town.  We learned that the night before, a religious procession passed through the town guided only by candlelight.  We lamented our bad timing, missing the event by one day.

Fast forward 9 years, 364 days.  On September 13 this year, we revisited Lucca and watched the candlelight procession.  It was a beautiful and moving experience.  Candles on the buildings and handheld candle torches lit the way. 

The procession is very important in Lucca.  It is called La Luminara and it is part of Lucca's annual Feast of the Exaltation of the Holy Cross.

In this case, the Holy Cross is believed to have an ancient origin.  Nicodemus, a disciple of Jesus, carved a large, life-sized crucifix.  Nicodemus first carved the body.  When it came time to carve the face, Nicodemus did not have the skill and despaired.  He left and later returned to find the face perfectly carved.  It was a miracle. 

To protect the cross from destruction, it was placed on a ship with no crew.  The ship and its cargo were adrift on the sea for centuries, eventually landing near Lucca in 742.  The cross was taken to Lucca and placed in the church of San Frediano.  Overnight, the cross disappeared from San Frediano.  The miraculously cross reappeared the next morning in a garden near Lucca's cathedral.  The cross was then placed inside the cathedral. 

Lucca has celebrated the feast of the Holy Cross for many centuries.  The path of the candlelit procession starts at San Frediano, winds through the town and ends at the cathedral, the same "miraculous path" taken by cross.  An image of the Holy Cross leads the solemn procession (the actual Holy Cross remains locked in the cathedral).  Hundreds and hundreds of residents of Lucca of all ages participate in the procession. 

Below are some photographs of the procession--La Luminara di Lucca.

Preparations for the procession start several days before.  Below is photo of last minute preparations--workers placing lit candles on the façade of a large building. 

Along the path of the procession, large red banners are hung from windows. 

Below, workers place lit candles of the façade of San Frediano, the starting pointing of the procession.

San Frediano's façade is a lovely gold mosaic. 

The bishop of Lucca leads the procession.  Below are some of the items carried during the procession.

As the sun sets in Lucca, streets along the procession's path start to fill.

Thousands of candles light the path of the procession.

The procession arrives led by the image of the Holy Cross, followed by a flower-covered cross.

The procession is very long, with many hundreds of participants. The procession is so long that the bishop arrives at the cathedral before the last group has begun walking. 

Bands participate in the procession.  You can hear some of the music by clicking here.

The procession includes many groups in medieval dress, like the drum corps below.  The sound of the drums was deafening in the narrow streets.  You can listen by clicking here. 

Of course, flag throwers participated in the procession.  It's a must. 

Other participants were dressed in medieval military uniforms and carried period weapons, like the dude below with a large crossbow.  "Look, ma, no hands!"

Some of the most picturesque scenes were in the large squares along the route. 

Even a church along the route was lit with candles.  You can see the candles flicker by clicking here. 

We hope you enjoyed the Luminara.  We are very happy that we returned to see it.