Monday, June 19, 2017

Travels in Tuscany--San Gimignano Revisited (Part 2 of 2)

We recently returned to San Gimignano for another visit, seeing and learning more than during our earlier visit. 

San Gimignano was a sleepy town until the rise of pilgrimages to Rome from all over Europe in the late medieval period.  San Gimignano was geographically fortunate since one of the principal pilgrimage routes ran through the town, the Via Francigena ("the road that comes from France").  So, San Gimignano provided hospitality to pilgrims from England, France and elsewhere and filled its coffers with currency (primarily gold and the highly prized spice, saffron, which was easier and lighter to carry than gold).  San Gimignano prospered during the 1200's to the first half of the 1300's, until it all ended in 1348 with the devastating Black Death (plague).  

The Via Francigena still exists and is used by pilgrims to Rome and by hikers and cyclists.  Below is a map of the route through San Gimignano. 


As a result of the money flowing into San Gimignano, the town grew and flourished.  Scores of tall tower houses were built (apparently, size mattered) and the town began building a much larger church in the main square.  During our return visit, we strolled through the town's streets and alleys and visited the main church.    
The main square, the Piazza del Duomo, with a view of one of the surviving tower houses.

One of San Gimignano's many alleyways.

In the main square, the Basilica of Santa Maria Assunta.
The Basilica of Santa Maria Assunta was consecrated by the pope in 1148 and dedicated to the town's patron saint San Gimignano.  During the time of the town's prosperity, the church was richly decorated in the Gothic style with frescoes and other works of art.  Today, the church is home to beautiful medieval artwork, plus lovely Renaissance art added in later centuries.  Here are photos of the Gothic and Renaissance artwork in the church.


St. Sebastian by Benozzo Gozzoli (1466)
The church includes a chapel dedicated to the unofficial parton saint of the town, Santa Fina, who lived 1238-1253.   At age 10, Fina became very sick and was mostly bedridden.  She remained kind and reverent throughout her life and died at age 15.  Following her death, people with maladies visited her grave and were cured. 

In addition to towers and the main church, San Gimignano has gelato .  The award-winning gelateria Dondoli serves up excellent gelato, including the flavor Santa Fina Cream (with saffron and pine nuts).  We recommend stopping in for a taste whenever you visit San Gimignano.

Sally and Susan enjoying  tasty treat from Gelateria Dondoli in San Gimignano


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