Jewish Tuscany (Part 1 of 2)

Susan's lifelong friend (also a Susan) from Houston, Texas recently visited us here in Florence.  Prior to visiting, she asked friends which sites in Tuscany she should visit.  At least one friend recommended seeing the synagogue in Florence.  Both Susan's liked that recommendation. We had previously  enjoyed visiting the synagogue and had blogged about it.  This time, we arranged for a tour guide to tell us more about the synagogue and other historical locations.

All of us thought the tour was wonderful and informative.  Our guide, a transplanted American named Laura Greenblatt, was knowledgeable.  We toured the synagogue and its museum and then we toured part of the town, which included a visit to the site of the former Jewish ghetto in the center of Florence.  Throughout the tour, we learned about the very long and important history of Jews in Florence and the rest of Tuscany.  That history reaches back to at least Roman times.  Jewish traders, merchants and bankers played a significant role in the economic development of Tuscany. 

While touring the synagogue, we learned a few interesting things.  The synagogue was planned and built in the mid-19th century.  The original plan for the temple was modest. It called for a medium-sized building, simple in its design and decoration.  The Florence government asked the community to instead design and build a large, ornate temple worthy of the great city of Florence.  In the era of emancipation in Italy during the 19th century, Florence wanted to show it was a progressive and important city.  The result is the very large, ornate temple standing today.  In fact, the temple is so tall that it is a prominent feature of Florence's skyline.

We also learned that the synagogue has some out-of-the-ordinary features.  One is a pulpit and the other is a pipe organ.  Our guide explained that the pulpit and organ are not customary and not used for services.  However, the temple is used for meetings and other events (such as concerts) and the pulpit and organ are sometimes used for those events.   

Below are some photos of the synagogue.  We were not allowed to take photos while touring it, but our guide Laura shared some photos she was allowed to take on an earlier visit to attend a meeting.)

The Great Synagogue of Florence (Tempio Maggiore Israelitico di Firenze) photographed from outside the gate.

The synagogue's courtyard

The sanctuary of the synagogue.  The curtains have been opened to reveal the ark, the repository of the Torah scrolls (middle).  The pipes of the organ appear on the right.

The sanctuary of the synagogue. 

The sanctuary of the synagogue, as seen from the women's gallery upstairs. The pulpit appears on the far left.

In the museum, a richly embroidered mantle, or cover, for the Torah scroll.  The mantle has been restored after being damaged in Florence's 1966 flood, as have many other artifacts including a large number of Torah scrolls. 

The synagogue at night.  The synagogue is near our apartment and we happened to pass by on the same day as our tour.

Florence skyline:  The Great Synagogue of Florence in the center and the bell tower of the Basilica of Santa Croce to the left

Next Up:  A fortunate occurrence.